Parts Installation Page

Blackwell Electronic True Twin Conversion ON/OFF Kit Installation

Product development/production and write-up/pictures by Jeremy Blackwell. Special thanks to Derek McCollough for helping take the pictures!If you would like to purchase this ‘E-TTC Kit’, you can BUY IT HERE!

Introduction: SpeedForSale.com’s Electronic True Twin Conversion ON/OFF Kit (‘E-TTC Kit’ for short) allows you to change your Supra’s stock twin turbo operation between normal ‘sequential’ mode and ‘parallel/true twin’ mode by simply flipping an ON/OFF switch! This modification is great for road racing, racing from a roll, and at the strip (with drag radials) for the following reasons:

-Reduces the chance of bearing/shaft failure in the #2 turbocharger since it’s always working instead of going from a near stop to full boost within a few hundred RPM’s (which eventually warps the shaft.)

-Provides more power between 3300 and 4300 RPM’s, and allows the car to hit peak boost a couple hundred RPM sooner.

-Power delivery is much more smooth, and causes less wheel spin in comparison to standard sequential operation delivering power all at once. It makes your car feel like it has a tiny single turbo on it.

-Gives your exhaust that DEEP throaty sound at idle and at lower RPM’s!!

-Looks nice and tasteful mounted on your Supra’s dash!

Installation and appearance have also been simplified by running the wires directly to the ECU in comparison to the old method of running wires through the fender and into the engine bay as with most home-made E-TTC kits. This kit uses high quality 3M quick-disconnect male/female spade connectors that also allow you to return your wiring to factory in minutes if you need to! All 6 connections on the back of the switch are first fluxed and soldered to ensure a tight and clean connection, then waterproof silicone is added around the terminals to prevent corrosion and shorting out. The wiring is then covered with heat shrink wrap for a clean installation.

Here’s how it works: your second turbo comes online when the stock ECU lets the Intake Air Control Valve’s vacuum switching valve (IACV VSV) and Exhaust Gas Control Valve’s vacuum switching valve (EGCV VSV) ‘see’ a constant ground for the circuit. This usually happens around 3700 RPM, which is when your #2 turbo normally comes online. The ‘E-TTC Kit’ allows you to let the circuit ‘see’ a constant ground simply by flipping a switch ON, thus making your #2 turbo stay online until you flip the switch back OFF!

Time Required: 30-60 minutes

Tools Required:

– rachet with short extension

– 10mm socket

– shorty phillips head screw-driver

– flathead screw-driver

– wire cutter, stripper, and crimper

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Install this modification at your own risk! ‘Speed For Sale LLC’ will not be held liable for any damage that occurs to you or your car while/after installing this modification!

Installation Steps:

***PLEASE NOTE THAT USDM AND JDM SUPRA WIRING HARNESSES ARE DIFFERENTTHIS INSTALLATION WAS PERFORMED ON A USDM SUPRA.  PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR THE CORRECT WIRING COLORS FOR EACH MODEL!***

 

1. Disconnect the battery’s negative cable using the 10mm socket. Be careful not to touch the positive and negative terminals at the same time with the rachet!

2. Remove the passenger side kick panel: We’ll start the install by getting the wiring at the ECU ready, and then move on to taking apart the dash to install the switch. First, remove the passenger side floormat and the 2 small holder clips at the very top end of the carpet that holds it down (many Supras are missing these.)You can do so by removing the push-clip on the kick panel near the floormat (push the center of the clip IN, then pull the entire clip OUT…see picture 1 below.)

Then, simply remove the kick panel by firmly pulling UP on it to release the 4 or 5 retainer tabs holding it down (see pictures 2 and 3 below.)

3. Expose ECU: Pull back the carpet to expose the ECU cover (see picture 4 below.)

Using the 10mm socket and extension, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the bottom of the ECU cover and gently take the cover out and set it aside. Now you should see the main ECU and smaller traction control ECU (see picture 5 below.)

4. Find and cut proper wires & install male spade connectors: Be very careful on this step!

FOR USDM SUPRA WIRING HARNESSES, locate the 2 wires that are Pin B-40 GREEN with BLACK stripe (IACV VSV) and Pin B-39 GREEN with YELLOW stripe (EGCV VSV).

FOR JDM SUPRA WIRING HARNESSES, locate the 2 wires that are Pin B-40 GREEN with BLUE stripe (IACV VSV) and Pin B-39 GREEN with YELLOW stripe (EGCV VSV).

 

CAREFULLY cut back some of the electrical tape/wrap that bundles the entire wire harness together so that the wires have more ‘slack’ to work with (see picture 6 below.)

Once you have done this and have the 2 wires located, cut them both about 2″ from the ECU so that you have some extra wire to work with in case you mess up! After you cut both wires, strip all four ends that are left, and crimp the MALE connectors that are included with the kit in the following manner:

Put the BLUE connectors on the 2 cut ends of the Pin 40/IACV VSV wire, and the RED connectors on the ends of the Pin 39/EGCV VSV wire (see picture 7 below.)   The MALE connectors go on the cut ends of the wires going to the ECU, and the FEMALE connectors go to the cut ends of the wires going out to the VSV’s in the engine bay.

This is easy to remember because the blue connectors go on the IACV VSV wire (cold=blue) and the red connectors go on the EGCV VSV wire (hot=red.) This kit has male/female connectors so that you can quickly and easily unplug the ‘E-TTC Kit’ and plug your stock wires back together should you ever wish to put the car back to stock.

 


5. Now that the ‘hard’ part is over, you can move on to removing the dash, mounting the switch, and connecting the wires. If you did NOT purchase your ‘E-TTC Kit’ pre-mounted in a factory trim piece that mounts beside the traction control, then mount the switch whereever you like (as long as the wires reach), put the ring terminal to a constant chassis ground, and skip to STEP 10. If you DID buy the Kit already pre-mounted in the factory trim piece, please continue to STEP 6.

6. Remove your dash: Pull out your ashtray, and then GENTLY pull up on the dash piece around your shifter until it pops loose (see picture 8 below.)

Using the ‘shorty screw-driver’, remove the 5 phillips head screws that hold the dash piece above your gauges in place (the one with the small various warning lights…see picture 9 below.)

Pull the piece out, then disconnect the 3 wire harness connectors from it (be sure to disconnect your negative battery cable or your AIRBAG warning light will stay on until you reset it!) The next piece to remove is the trim piece around your gauges. Grasp the top part of it at each end and gently but firmly pull. The top will pop loose, then pull the bottom loose. Next, remove the one single screw that holds the MAIN dash piece in place (the one with the air conditioning controls…see picture 10 below.)

Pull the dash from the top and you will feel it pop loose, then pull from the bottom near the ‘TRACTION CONTROL’ button and the entire piece will pop loose. After it’s loose, you need to remove all the connectors on the back of the dash piece. These connectors are: 2 air conditioning wire harnesses (orange, press clip and pull), lighter wire harness (pull off), lighter illumination (bulb, turn counter-clockwise and pull), traction control wire harness (press clip and pull), and clock wire harness (press clip and pull.) Now you should have the MAIN dash piece loose, and now have easy access to the back side of it.

7. Install the switch/trim piece in the dash: Using a flathead screwdriver, pry the side tabs of the current rectangular trim piece that is located to the left of the TRACTION CONTROL button (when looking at the dash from the front side) so that the piece comes loose and pops out the back side of the dash (see picture 11 below.)

Now, simply insert the trim piece/switch portion of the ‘E-TTC Kit’ where the other trim piece was located on the backside of the dash until it pops into place (see picture 12 below.)

8. Route wires: Pull back the carpet going along the passenger side of the console. Run the main bundle of 4 wires coming from the ‘E-TTC Kit’ under the radio head unit and down through the passenger side of the console so that the 4 red/blue connectors are ran under the carpet and down to the stock ECU…do not hook them up yet! (see pictures 13 and 14 below.)

Next, run the ring terminal/ground wire from the ‘E-TTC Kit’ underneath the black plastic piece that is directly in front of the shifter (if you don’t run the wire under this black dash under-piece, it will be pinched bewteen the dash and the under-piece!) Using the 10mm socket and extension, first remove the ‘front passenger-side’ bolt holding the shifter dust boot down, then put the ring terminal/ground wire on this bolt, and finally screw the bolt back in (see pictures 15 below.)

9. Put dash back together: Follow STEP 7 above going backwards to reinstall the dash. When you are done it should look like picture 16 below:

10. Hook up ECU/VSV wires to the ‘E-TTC Kit’ wires: THE 2 LONGEST WIRES WITH MALE CONNECTORS COMING FROM THE ‘E-TTC KIT’ GO TO THE CUT FACTORY WIRE ENDS GOING TO THE VSV’S/ENGINE BAY, AND THE 2 SHORTEST WIRES WITH FEMALE CONNECTORS GO TO THE CUT FACTORY WIRE ENDS GOING TO THE ECU/COMPUTER!!! Double check to make sure you have this connection correct, or the kit will not work! Plug the blue connectors together, then plug the red connectors together. Please note that these connectors will be tight, and will take a good bit of force to connect them! Once you have connected the wires, use a zip-tie to bundle the wires together so they don’t get caught on the plastic ‘retainer hook’ on the back side of the ECU cover when reinstalling.  Once you have done this, the wires will look like they are in picture 17 below:


11. Reinstall the ECU cover, carpet, and passenger side kick-panel by following STEP 3 in reverse order, and then STEP 2 in reverse order. Now, your car should be fully put back together. It’s time for a test drive!!

12. You may turn the switch ON at any time you wish, but I recommend turning it on at idle. On ’96-’98 Supras, you need to make sure the ETTC switch is turned OFF when your car is turned off, if not you will get a check engine light when you start your car back up.  Once you turn the switch on, you must build boost before it will be active, because pressure must be trapped between the stock ‘pressure tank’ and the IACV and EGCV actuators for them to open. You will notice a bit more lag below 2800 RPM, but more power between 2800-4000 RPM as well as a smoother power band and peak boost a couple hundred RPM sooner. HAPPY BOOSTING!!

Blackwell’s Plug-N-Play Oxygen Sensor Simulator

Tech article write-up by Jonathan Greene.

If you would like to purchase this ‘Supra Plug and Play Oxygen Sensor Simulator’, you can BUY IT HERE!

 

INTRODUCTION:  This Supra Plug-and-Play Oxygen Sensor Simulator includes a premium simulator with fluctuating voltage feedback along with OEM Toyota style male and female connectors for easy installation.  You simply unplug the rear oxygen sensor and plug in the simulator with NO cutting or splicing of wires.  Difficulty level: EASY!

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Install this modification at your own risk. ‘Speed For Sale LLC’ will not be held liable for any damage that occurs to you or your car while/after installing this modification!  This item is for off-road use only, and is not to be used for vehicles driven on the street as it is not emission legal!

 

Time Required: ~30-45 minutes for a novice

Tools Required:

-flat head screw driver to pry trim pieces with

-14mm socket with rachet

-needle nose pliers to help remove the wiring harnesses/clips under the seat (optional)

-small breaker bar to help with breaking loose the seat base bolts (optional)


Installation Steps:

1. Push the driver seat all the way forward as shown. Using your flat head screw driver, pry covers up with screwdriver under the lips circled in red. The cover should pull out in direction of arrows once pried loose.

2. Using your ratchet and 14mm, remove the three bolts now showing from the body.

3. Push the driver seat all the way back as shown. Using your flat head screw driver, pry covers up with screwdriver under the lips circled in red (same as in Step 2) and pull out. Using your ratchet and 14mm, remove the two bolts now showing from the body.

4. Using your right hand, lift up on the bottom of the seat, tilting it toward the back seat.

5. Look underneath seat to spot electrical connectors. Detach the two connectors shown below from the bottom of the seat and carefully remove the seat.

6. Pull the carpet back from center console area of the vehicle. This will reveal a connector/harness protruding from the center console.

7. Disconnect the connector/harness and plug in the O2 simulator as shown below.

 

SpeedForSale.com’s Italian Leather Supra Shifter Boot
Product development/production and write-up/pictures by Jeremy Blackwell.If you would like to purchase this ‘SpeedForSale.com Italian Leather Shifter Boot’, you can BUY IT HERE!

If you have a 6-speed/5-speed Supra with high miles, I’m sure your stock shifter boot is faded and has a rip near the velcro, like this:

Our custom made shift boots replace your old one perfectly, are twice as thick, and have a nice fresh leather smell. Here is a picture of the ‘S4S Shifter Boot’ next to a stock Toyota shifter boot. Notice that the stitching and velcro are EXACTLY the same as the stock boot!:

Here is what the finished product will look like:

Installation:

1) Open the ashtray, and pull up on it to remove it from the ‘shifter console piece.’

2) Gripping the area where the ashtray was, pull up on the rear of the ‘shifter console piece’ gently to unsnap the clips holding it down.

3) Pull up on the front of the ‘shifter console piece’ gently to remove the piece.

4) Undo the velcro around the shifter neck, and slide the stock shifter boot up over the shifter knob.

5) Undo the ashtray light wiring harness by pressing the clip and pulling them apart.

6) Set the shifter console piece upside-down on a soft cloth on a stable work area, making sure not to scratch the flaky dash coating on 1993-96 Supras’ dash pieces (’97-98 dashes don’t scratch easily.)

7) Use a drill, dremel tool, cut-off wheel, etc to separate the plastic rivets holding down the plastic ring holding the stock shifter boot down. NOTE: you should cut the rivet area a bit to loosen it, then simply pull up on the ring and it will SNAP/BREAK away from the rivets, leaving small rivet pegs sticking up. Notice I was using a drill in the pictures, due to not having anything else where I did this install.

8) The old shift boot will simply fall out. Discard the plastic ring piece. Now, simply put the new boot back in like the old one was.

9) Align the new shifter boot in the proper orientation so the holes in the boot slide over the rivet pegs. Test fit the boot now. NOTE: Depending on how many pegs are left sticking up, you may have to hold the boot in place while test fitting.

10) Using ‘Automotive GOOP’ or another similar adhesive, apply a thin bead around the END of the shiter boot skirt for about 1/4 of the way around the perimeter of the OUTSIDE LEATHER, and press it onto the back of the shifter console piece. You will have to hold it in place for a couple minutes while the adhesive dries. NOTE: Be careful to avoid any excess adhesive showing on the visible part of the boot!

11) Continue applying adhesive and sticking down the skirt around the rest of the perimeter until the boot is completely held down.

12) Allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours, and then scrape off any excess adhesive showing on the top side of the boot.

13) Reverse steps 1-5 to reinstall the shifter console piece.

14) Enjoy the look (and fresh leather smell) of your new shift boot! NOTE: We are working on a different/easier way to install the boot, keep an eye out for new install directions coming soon…

SpeedForSale.com’s Italian Leather Supra E-Brake Boot
E-Brake Boot InstallationIf you want to purchase this boot, you can BUY IT HERE!

Here are a few pictures of the boot:

Installation:

1. First, start by removing the panel piece around the shifter and e-brake by removing the ashtray, and gently but firmly pull up on the piece and disconnecting the ashtray light wiring harness. See picture below…

2. Second, unscrew the phillips head screw holding down the e-brake trim cover (see picture below…)

3. Next, lift up on the e-brake trim cover so that the clips holding it down pop out. You should be able to see the entire e-brake at this point (see 3 pictures below…)

4. Now, simply slide the ‘E-brake boot’ over the emergency brake handle and pull down tight so that it is snug and there are no wrinkles in the leather. This is also a good time to put interior protectant (Armor-all, ect) on it. See picture below…

5. Finally, simply re-assemble everything by doing steps 1-3 in reverse order, and you are done!

GT28R stock twin turbo upgrade development and testing

**To purchase this turbo kit, you can BUY IT HERE!**

Hello everyone…testing is now done and results are below! Due to the clutter and sheer size of the thread on SupraForums (located HERE) regarding the exciting new GT28R stock twin system for the 1993-98 Toyota Supra Twin Turbo, I decided to start this page to keep track of our progress on the test vehicle as it progressed. If you have any questions, please post them in the SupraForums thread for now.

The peak numbers on a Mustang Dyno using 116 octane gasoline at 21.5psi were 520rwhp and 487rwtq with a VERY conservative air:fuel ratio. At 24psi they should make 550rwhp or so, however this would max out stock fuel injectors at a 100% duty cycle which I don’t recommend doing. These turbos will be ready to be sold on Monday, May 19, 2008. The price for the twin GT28R turbos and the installation kit (lines, fittings, hoses, etc) will be $3300 plus shipping. We have about 12 sets of core turbos to minimize your down time if you need them. If you buy a set of these GT28R turbos without sending in your stock core turbos first, there will be a $950 core charge that is fully refundable once we receive your stock cores back (must be returned within 30 days to be honored.)

First, let’s start off by noting some test data:

Installation and instruction touch-ups performed by Jared Pink from SpeedForSale, and the dyno tuning and write-up were performed by Jeremy Blackwell from SpeedForSale. Turbos developed by BNR Supercars. Turbo installation kit and idea facilitation by Stu Hagen.

Pictures of these turbos can be found BY CLICKING HERE. Also, here are the details and specifications of these twin GT28R turbos compared to the stock CT12B turbos:

The test vehicle’s information is as follows:

1997 Supra Twin Turbo (INFO and PICTURES HERE), 6-speed manual transmission, 86k miles, original engine with a recent compression test that yielded the following results: #1=165psi, 2=163, 3=168, 4=167, 5=168, 6=168. This car has been brought to us for parts and service for several years now, and it has been VERY well maintained! The owner cares more about keeping the car in top notch working order compared to adding more modifications. We have installed every modification on the car other than the coilovers, downpipe/exhaust, intake, and wheels. It is one of the more solid and problem free Supras with 80k+ miles I’ve seen…it’s a nice one! We just changed the Champion Race Plugs that we use on all Supras after having ~20,000 miles of use put on them, and they were still in good enough shape to reuse for a while longer with no miss (see pictures by CLICKING HERE.)

Modifications include

– RPS stage 2 clutch installed recently

– Blackwell E-TTC switch kit (allows the stock twin turbos to convert from sequential operation to parallel (true twin) operation with the flip of a switch mounted beside the traction control… INFO HERE)

– Autometer electronic boost gauge

– S4S cross drilled and slotted rotors with new OEM Toyota pads

– calipers painted black

– White Supra script on calipers

– S4S black Italian leather shifter boot

– Champion Race plugs gapped at 0.035″ (much better than NGK in terms of gap size without missing and life span)

– TEIN coilovers

– Kinesis wheels

– downpipe

– 4″ Ti cat-back exhaust

– Maxx Air box with K&N filter

– HKS Type S Front mount intercooler with T-bolt clamps

– carbon fiber upper radiator panel

– Greddy ProfecB Type-S boost controller

– Greddy BCC

– Blitz DDBOV on cold intercooler pipe and stock bypass valve on hot intercooler pipe

– Innovate Motorsports XD16/LC1 wideband combo

AT THIS POINT of the modifications list, the FIRST round of dyno testing was done. You can see the results below…

We then installed these parts:

– GT28R stock twin turbo upgrade kit

– Polished upper radiator hardpipe

– Mishimoto Radiator test car

AT THIS POINT of the modifications list, the SECOND round of dyno testing was done. You can see the results below…

We then installed the final items:

– MAP ECU

– HKS DLI

AT THIS POINT, the THIRD round of dyno testing was done. Results below…

FINALLY, the FOURTH and FINAL round of testing was done with 116 octane leaded gasoline. Results below…

_________________________________________________



FIRST ROUND OF TESTING:

– April 9, 2008

– Results are from a Dynojet 248C with SAE Correction (NOTE: MAP ECU tuning will be done on a Dyno Dynamics load bearing dyno, but we used the DynoJet inertial dyno for the horsepower readings because they are ‘glory’ dynos and read higher horsepower numbers that most people are used to…)

– Conditions via Weather.com were 1:00pm eastern time, 70 degrees F, partly cloudy, 52% humidity, 30.19 in/hg and steady, 52 degree F dew point.

– 93 octane pump gas was used for these pulls

– The car was driven 45 minutes to the dyno, and the ONLY cool down time it had was while it was being strapped down to the dyno! We allowed 1-2 minutes cool down time (with the car still running) between pulls. Remember everyone, we build cars for REAL WORLD conditions, not dyno queens with iced-down intake manifolds!

– You can download the manifold pressure and RPM datalogs logs from the Innovate LM1 and LMA-3 AuxBox by CLICKING HERE (RIGHT CLICK-> SAVE AS, then open with LogWorks program!)

– Please note that on the next two tests we will log a second wideband reading on the Innovate logger as well (we forgot to weld in two wideband bungs so we have one for dyno logging and one for our Innovate data logger), and are also trying to get the new Innovate OBD2 logger working on this car so we have data from the factory ECU! However there are multiple documented hardware and firmware issues with the Innovate OBD2 logger right now, so hopefully they will sort them out within the week!

Here are three dyno pulls in sequential turbo operation on three different boost levels, with the highest runs hitting 17psi and falling off to 16psi by redline. I didn’t mess much with boost controller on low boost to prevent the creep you can notice. I made a few pulls on the way to the dyno on high boost and adjusted the gain to get it fairly smooth, but obviously there is more room for improvement. I didn’t spend a ton of time on it since we just made a few baseline pulls and will be adjusting it later.

Sequential operation

Here is the air:fuel ratio and manifold pressure (noted as ‘fuel pressure’ but is actually manifold pressure) from the runs above. Also note that there is no smoothing, thus the lines being jumpy. On the Innovate datalogs and boost gauge, the boost was a smooth curve, so just brief disregard the boost spikes and valleys:

Sequential air fuel and boost
Here are the next three pulls which were made in parallel (AKA True Twin) mode:

true twin horsepower and torque

true twin air fuel and boost
_____________________________________________

SECOND ROUND OF TESTING:

- April 16, 2008

– Results are from a Dynojet 248C with SAE Correction (NOTE: MAP ECU tuning will be done on a Dyno Dynamics load bearing dyno, but we used the DynoJet inertial dyno for the horsepower readings because they are ‘glory’ dynos and read higher horsepower numbers that most people are used to…)

– Conditions via Weather.com were 1:45pm eastern time, 67 degrees F, sunny, 25% humidity, 30.29 in/hg and steady, 29 degree F dew point.

– 93 octane pump gas was used for these pulls

– The car was driven 45 minutes to the dyno, and the ONLY cool down time it had was while it was being strapped down to the dyno! We allowed 1-2 minutes cool down time (with the car still running) between pulls. Remember everyone, we build cars for REAL WORLD conditions, not dyno queens with iced-down intake manifolds!

– Since the first test we did, we have had TWO issues with our Innovate Motorsports logging system. First, the OT-1 OBD2 logger was bad out of the box, which is why we couldn’t get it to work! Also, the LMA-3 AuxBox just suddenly stopped working while I was setting it up to log the first dyno run. So, we are waiting on both the OT-1 and LMA-3 AuxBox to be repaired by Innovate Motorsports….ugghh bad timing to say the least.

Here are three dyno pulls in sequential turbo operation on three different boost levels, with the highest runs hitting 18psi and falling off to 17psi by redline. I didn’t mess much with boost controller on low boost to prevent the creep you can notice. It seems that the ‘low boost’ setting on the Profec may be messed up, as I can turn it up 3/4 of the way and it will only make 15psi of boost. However the high boost knob works, so I’ll just use it for now and get the Profec warranted by Greddy once the project is completed. This explains why the ‘low boost’ curves above don’t have more peak boost than with the controller off, however they do have the benefit slightly quicker boost response.

GT28R Sequential HP
Here is the air:fuel ratio and manifold pressure (noted as ‘fuel pressure’ but is actually manifold pressure) from the runs above. Also note that there is no smoothing, thus the lines being jumpy. On the Innovate datalogs and boost gauge, the boost was a smooth curve, so just brief disregard the boost spikes and valleys. 7psi at 2500rpm is great for turbos that have this much top end potential!

Also notice the ‘high boost’ run was shown on the boost gauge as hitting about 18.8psi and falling off to 18.3psi at redline, which is higher than the ‘high boost’ pull made on the original stock twin turbos. So, I turned the boost controller down a bit to the same boost level, and made one final pull (you will find this last pull’s dynograph as you read on…):

GT28R Sequential AFR
Here are the next three pulls which were made in parallel (AKA True Twin) mode:

GT28R True Twin HP

GT28R True Twin AFR
And, as promised, here is a final run I made at a lower ‘high boost’ setting. On the boost gauge it peaked around 17.9psi and fell off to 17.3psi at redline. So, this run was about 1psi higher than the ‘high boost’ run on the original stock twin turbos and made 29.8 rear wheel horsepower more. HOWEVER, a very interesting and promising note is that the air:fuel ratio (which is a direct correlation with ignition timing advance by the MAF signal and thus power production) on the GT28R turbos over 4000rpm is 10.0:1 to 10.5:1, whereas on the original stock twin turbos it was 10.5:1 to 11.3:1. If the air:fuel would have been the same for both the GT28R and stock turbos, the horsepower gains would have been a good bit more. Regarding lag, as you can see the GT28R turbos only have 100rpm more lag to hit 5psi, 250rpm more lag to hit 7psi, and 350rpm more lag to hit 16psi. The stock exhaust manifold is a major restriction on low boost over 6500rpm and on higher boost the stock manifold is very restrictive over 6000rpm, as I have seen on many cars including the Sound Performance budget single turbo kit that used the stock manifold with a 2-into-1 Y-pipe going to a single turbo….

SO, we have a lot of room to work with on the MAP ECU on our next round of testing, and it should yield great power gains by leaning the air:fuel (and thus advancing ignition timing advance) to very low 11’s at peak torque and trailing up to mid-11’s at higher RPM!

GT28R Sequential 17psi HP

GT28R Sequential 17psi AFR

_______________________________________________

THIRD ROUND OF TESTING:

- May 8, 2008

– Results are from a Mustang Dyno model 1750 with SAE Correction

– Conditions via Weather.com were 74 degrees F, rain showers, 56% humidity, 29.69 in/hg and steady, 57 degree F dew point.

– 93 octane pump gas was used for these pulls

– The car was driven 30 minutes to the dyno, and the ONLY cool down time it had was while it was being strapped down to the dyno! We allowed 1-2 minutes cool down time (with the car still running) between pulls. Remember everyone, we build cars for REAL WORLD conditions, not dyno queens with iced-down intake manifolds!

– During this dyno sesson compared to the last one, the only variable is that we installed and tuned the MAP ECU along with the HKS DLI ignition amplifier.

– We will update these charts ASAP with graphs that display an RPM range from 1800 RPM to 6700 RPM!

________________________________________________

FOURTH AND FINAL ROUND OF TESTING:

- May 16, 2008

– Results are from a Mustang Dyno model 1750 with SAE Correction

– Conditions via Weather.com were 68 degrees F, mostly cloudy, 65% humidity, 29.88 in/hg and steady, 55 degree F dew point.

– 116 octane leaded gasoline was used for these pulls

– The car was driven 30 minutes to the dyno, and the ONLY cool down time it had was while it was being strapped down to the dyno! We allowed 1-2 minutes cool down time (with the car still running) between pulls. Remember everyone, we build cars for REAL WORLD conditions, not dyno queens with iced-down intake manifolds!

– During this dyno sesson compared to the last one, the only variable is that 116 octane fuel was used and the boost was turned up.

– This dyno’s manifold pressure sensor read about .5-1psi LOWER than the MAP ECU’s logs. The LogWorks datalog below shows about .5-1psi HIGHER than the MAP ECU logs as I forgot to enter the current atmospheric pressure in it’s settings. The boost gauge on the car showed the same boost level on it’s peak hold as the MAP ECU logs.

– We will update these charts ASAP with graphs that display an RPM range from 1800 RPM to 6700 RPM!
Here is the 19psi (on MAP ECU log) pull, which yielded 480 rwhp and 473 rwtq:

Here is one of the 21.5psi (on MAP ECU log) pulls. The air:fuel at peak torque was a bit leaner than I wanted, even though there was a full 23 degrees of ignition timing advance which indicates no knock. Also, I could have leaned out the air:fuel at higher RPM, but again I tune for 100% reliability! I would estimate if the air:fuel curve was leaned out a bit more, the car probably would have made around 530-540 rwhp and 515-525 rwtq. But, the end result on this pull was 514 rwhp and 508 rwtq.  This first chart below shows the manifold pressure (PSI/boost), and the second one shows Air:fuel ratio.

Also, here are the LogWorks datalogs (RIGHT CLICK-> SAVE AS, then open with LogWorks program!):

CLICK HERE FOR DATA LOGS!

 

 

VIN Tag Checklist

To view the VIN Tag Checklist that we made, CLICK HERE!

SpeedForSale.com’s Boost Leak Tester
Product development/production and write-up/pictures by Jeremy Blackwell.If you would like to purchase this ‘SpeedForSale.com Boost Leak Tester’, you can BUY IT HERE!

INTRODUCTION: SpeedForSale.com’s Boost Leak Tester includes a boost leak tester, and (optional upgrade) dummy plug for intercooler pipe testing. The kit was designed specifically for the 1993-98 Supra (custom sizes available.) It allows you to quickly and easily pressurize your Supra’s intake system/plenum to find any boost/vacuum leaks. You can also use the ‘blank’ block-off plug to allow you to heavily pressurize your intercooler pipes to check to make sure they don’t pop off during high boost situations.

Time Required: ~20 minutes

Tools Required:

-rachet with short entension

-10mm socket

-air compressor

-something heavy enough to hold down the gas pedal

Legal Disclaimer: LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Install this modification at your own risk! ‘Speed For Sale LLC’ will not be held liable for any damage that occurs to you or your car while/after installing this modification! This process involves working with compressed air which can be VERY dangerous! You must also make sure that the clamp holding the tester/plug in the pipe must be tightened VERY tightly, otherwise the plug may pop out and damage your car or hurt someone! Never point the tester directly at yourself!

Installation Steps:

1. The area in which you will be working is the factory air filter area (see picture #1 below.)

2. Untighted the 2 hose clamps that hold the #1 rubber intercooler pipe on and remove it (the black pipe over the air filter in the picture above.) Next, unplug and remove the Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter and air filter from the #1 intake pipe (see picture #2 below.)

3. Now, loosen the hose clamp holding the #1 intake pipe (see picture #3 below) to the aluminum turbo intake piece, and rotate the #1 intake pipe up a bit so that you can fit the ‘Boost Leak Tester’ into the end of the pipe. Tighten the clamp, ensuring that it is very snug.  If the clamp is worn out, you may need to purchase a new hose clamp at your local parts store.

4. Next, simply insert the ‘Boost Leak Tester’ into the #1 intake pipe where the MAF meter was located, and tighten the clamp down VERY tightly so it doesn’t pop off! (see picture #6 below.)

5. For lightly testing the intake system AND plenum for vacuum/boost leaks go to STEP 6. For heavily pressurizing the intercooler pipes ONLY, go to STEP 8.

6. Making sure that the car is turned OFF, put something heavy on top of the gas pedal inside the car so that it’s held at least half way open. This will allow the intake plenum to pressurize easier.

7. Using an air compressor, pressurize the boost leak tester so that the gauge shows about 5-7psi of pressure, then listen for leaks. You have to be fairly quick about finding leaks (best to have a friend help), because the pressure will bleed off after a few seconds.  If it bleeds off too quickly for you to test, simply remove the check valve in the stem coming out of the tester by rotating it counter-clockwise with a small screwdriver to allow more airflow (note: if you do this method, you’ll have to have someone hold the compressed air to the stem so it doesn’t bleed off.)  Now, simply listen for leaks around the intake manifold/throttle body, and the vacuum hoses around the stock turbos! Using a mechanics stethoscope with the metal piece taken out of the end makes finding leaks MUCH easier (see picture #7 below!)

8. If you want to pressurize the intercooler pipes to 15-20psi to make sure they don’t pop off when boosting, remove the intercooler pipe that attaches to the throttle body, and insert the ‘dummy plug’ that came with the ‘Boost Leak Tester Kit’ into the pipe where the throttle body was located and tighten the clamp VERY tightly! KEEP THIS DUMMY PLUG POINTED AWAY FROM ANYTHING THAT COULD BE DAMAGED IN CASE THE PRESSURE POPS IT OUT!! Be very careful doing this! Once you pressurize the intercooler system to the desired pressure, hold it there for 5 seconds, and then let the pressure off and you are done! If an intercooler pipe pops loose, connect it and perform another test. Good luck, and happy boosting!