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Stainless steel brake lines - SpeedForSale Motorsports Forum SpeedForSale LLC

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Old 06-26-2009, 01:34 PM   #1
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Default Stainless steel brake lines

NOTE: If you are not familiar with brake systems, and how to properly bleed brakes, do NOT attempt this installation.

Begin by placing a oil drain under the wheel you are working on. Loosen the hard line at the inner fender. Once the line is loosed, you can remove the retaining clip

Remove the two nuts holding the "junction blocks"

Loosen the caliper hard line from the junction block. You can gently bend this back enough to remove the factory rubber line.

To fit the lines, you will need bend the self aligning tabs out.

With the T1R brakes lines, the lines thread into the junction couplers. What I had to do to make sure the lines sat correctly was first bolt outside junction block, and install the factory hard line. I then set the second block in place and tightened the line between the two blocks until it say in the correct orientation. I then bolted it in place and tightened the last line until I had the correct orientation.

You then remove the upper lock nut and feed the line into the locating tab. Tighten down the lock nuts and install the factory hard line.
(The process sounds complicated, but will make clear sense as you install the line)

For the rears, remove the upper hard line and tap as was done in the front.

For the lower section, remove the hard line from the Caliper. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket that the junction bolts to. Remove this entire assembly.

In the brake line hardware bag should be two union bolts, and four copper washers. Assemble the line this way 1. Bolt 2. Washer 3. Line 4. Washer. The bolt head goes on the same side as the angled fitting.

Because of the length of the hose, it will make a slight bend. This is okay, as when you lower the vehicle the bend's radius will be larger. Tighten the upper end like you did for the front, and fasten the bolt into the caliper so it looks like this picture.Tighten the union bolt to 22ft lbs (Note, this is not a GTR specification, as the GTR uses a hard line. This is a "standard" union bolt spec that is used on MANY brake calipers)

You can use a Zip Tie to tie the line to the shock if you like, however we didn't notice any potential clearance issues.

At this point, get your friends its time to bleed!
The manual calls for "GTR SPECIAL" brake fluid, we have found Motul RBF-600 to perform at and above the level of the OEM fluid.

Because of the small size of the brake fluid reservoir, I recommend a friend to stand with fluid ready to prevent the master cylinder from running dry. You will need a pedal pumper, and someone at the caliper to operate the bleeders.

Start at the rear right, OUTSIDE bleeder. Pump 4-5 times, and keep the pedal depressed. Open the bleeder with a clear hose attached going into a fluid catching container. As soon as the fluid stops to flow close the bleeder. Release the brake pedal and repeat the pumping process. Proceed until no air is seen coming through the clear drain line. Move to the inside bleeder valve.

The wheel order is Right rear outside -> Right rear inside -> Left rear outside -> Left rear inside -> Right front outside ->Right front inside ->Left front outside -> Left front inside.

At no point should you allow the master cylinder to go under half full of fluid, as you will run the risk of cavitation!
*GT-R Aftermarket Parts dealer for all major manufacturers...CLICK HERE!*

Staged Power & Chassis Upgrades List: CLICK HERE!

Jared Pink - ASE Master Certified (A1-A8) & L1 Certified.
Toyota Factory Trained Master Diagnostic Technician & Hybrid Certified

Lead technician for Speed For Sale LLC (Jared@SpeedForSale.com)


Last edited by JaredPink; 06-26-2009 at 02:36 PM..
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