Warning: in_array() expects parameter 2 to be array, null given in [path]/includes/class_postbit.php(304) : eval()'d code on line 2
Got a call from my Nissan GT-R tech - First oil change EXTREMELY dirty - SpeedForSale Motorsports Forum SpeedForSale LLC

Go Back   SpeedForSale Motorsports Forum > Client Forum - GT-R, Supra, Viper, Vette, and sports car discussion
Register FAQ Members List i-Trader Ratings VIN Registry Search Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-06-2009, 12:04 PM   #1
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default Got a call from my Nissan GT-R tech - First oil change EXTREMELY dirty

Hey guys,

Just got a call from the tech at Nissan that works on my GT-R. He wanted to let me know that he's changed some oils recently on 4000 ~ 6000 mile GT-R's, and the oil was EXTREMELY dirty. Have any of you experienced this with your first change, and if so, how severely do you drive your GT-R's as a point of reference?

Thanks!
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 01:18 PM   #2
totsubo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 444
iTrader: (1)
Default

Yeah, 40 weight oil is thin. Almost flows like water.

If you daily drive your GTR or drive it hard, it is recommended that you change out the oil more frequently. Every 3000 miles or so.

The manual states changing all fluids every 1800 miles if you track it.

I changed mine out at 4800 miles and it was dark and a little thick. I was surprised how dark it was for so few miles. I did not beat on the car either.

Now, I change it out every 3500 miles. The oil is noticeably cleaner.

I recently did the rear dif and the gear oil looked like new. I also did the transmission fluid. The transmission oil was a little dirty at 12,000 miles, but not as dirty as the one I saw at 6000 miles.

It all comes down to how you drive.
totsubo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 01:26 PM   #3
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default

Thanks totsubo for the detailed write up... absolutely makes sense. Mine is a pleasure/weekend driver so I'm putting fairly low miles on it. I do drive it spirited, but not launching it or doing anything too hard... yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by totsubo View Post
Yeah, 40 weight oil is thin. Almost flows like water.

If you daily drive your GTR or drive it hard, it is recommended that you change out the oil more frequently. Every 3000 miles or so.

The manual states changing all fluids every 1800 miles if you track it.

I changed mine out at 4800 miles and it was dark and a little thick. I was surprised how dark it was for so few miles. I did not beat on the car either.

Now, I change it out every 3500 miles. The oil is noticeably cleaner.

I recently did the rear dif and the gear oil looked like new. I also did the transmission fluid. The transmission oil was a little dirty at 12,000 miles, but not as dirty as the one I saw at 6000 miles.

It all comes down to how you drive.
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 03:50 PM   #4
Norman
malaysiagtrclub.com
 
Norman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,004
iTrader: (1)
Default

Personally according from Mobil~the point is the oil boilling point.OEM (New 0-40)Mobil 1 can take higher boiling ponit then it's "old"-50 Mobil 1(still selling in the market)
My first oil change at 3000"KM" with dark but not thick.cause where your environment and driving condition,i like that!dark oil?that's the oil clean out the dirt what it should be.my personal opinion: long mileage with clean oil means a useless oil.
Norman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 06:45 PM   #5
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default

Never thought about it that way, good point. I was using GC (German Castrol) religiously on my BMW before I traded it in, and it did get dark after a few thousand miles but never got too thick. Probably the reason so many people hail it online as a top-notch factory oil replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman View Post
Personally according from Mobil~the point is the oil boilling point.OEM (New 0-40)Mobil 1 can take higher boiling ponit then it's "old"-50 Mobil 1(still selling in the market)
My first oil change at 3000"KM" with dark but not thick.cause where your environment and driving condition,i like that!dark oil?that's the oil clean out the dirt what it should be.my personal opinion: long mileage with clean oil means a useless oil.
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 07:04 PM   #6
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default

Follow-on point I totally forgot to mention/ask about:

My tech mentioned that one way he determines whether or not the transmission oil needs to be changed is he looks at a long history log of the transmission oil temps. He said that if it has more of the metallic debris in it that would signify one that needs to be changed, he should see more erratic behavior in the oil's temperature.

Reason he said this is he did change another GT-R owner's oil at 3500 miles at the owner's request, and he said the oil was fairly clean.

Is this "temperature gauge" something that is a fairly common practice for determining tranny oil state, or is it probably just a better idea to get it changed out frequently?
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2009, 07:21 PM   #7
ATLsupra
NGTRC Sponsor
 
ATLsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 786
iTrader: (0)
Default

Generally speaking yes. The more dirty/thick the oil become, the temperature should go up faster and higher. Each one's driving style is different, the harder you push, the faster lubricant burns. To be safe, it would best to follow the maintenance schedule. Man, I sound like a dealership guy lol...
__________________
Staged Power & Chassis Upgrades List: CLICK HERE!
Parts installation articles: CLICK HERE!

Chinchi
SpeedForSale.com Parts Manager
Telephone: 770-777-4774
---
ATLsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2009, 12:21 PM   #8
sstevens06
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chalfont, PA
Posts: 31
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by totsubo View Post
Yeah, 40 weight oil is thin. Almost flows like water.

If you daily drive your GTR or drive it hard, it is recommended that you change out the oil more frequently. Every 3000 miles or so.

The manual states changing all fluids every 1800 miles if you track it.

I changed mine out at 4800 miles and it was dark and a little thick. I was surprised how dark it was for so few miles. I did not beat on the car either.

Now, I change it out every 3500 miles. The oil is noticeably cleaner.

I recently did the rear dif and the gear oil looked like new. I also did the transmission fluid. The transmission oil was a little dirty at 12,000 miles, but not as dirty as the one I saw at 6000 miles.

It all comes down to how you drive.

Yes, thank you for that advice totsubo!

Just checked my oil (about 3,100 miles -- no launches, no track, 3-day a week DD) and found it quite dark, but only a little thick. After break-in I've been driving pretty normally most of the time, but have opened it up when the opportunity presents itself (mostly on the highway).

Wondering if I should get the oil changed now?
sstevens06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2009, 09:17 PM   #9
mindlessoath
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 523
iTrader: (2)
Default

The stock oil requires more maintaince especially if launching or spirited driving. Only experience will tell you when to change from your driving.


I hear the willall fluid is much better but may void warranty because nissan says its not the stock oil... However there is a warranty law that says otherwise. Maybe someone can ask a dealer about that.
__________________
GT-R Center.net
Latest post: on February 25, 2010, 8:10 pm
Submit Stories, News, Images, Events, etc... by email
mindlessoath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2009, 01:40 AM   #10
mc
"powered by HKS"
 
mc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 282
iTrader: (0)
Default

i changed mine at 3500. have 5800 on the car now. will change again at maybe 7K
__________________
2009 Black Obsidian GT-R #0278. Powered by HKS. Legamax Exhaust. Racepipe. Hybrid filters
1/4 mile 11.34 @ 122.3
mc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2009, 08:08 AM   #11
celsius
STREET POWER
 
celsius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Aloha, OR
Posts: 88
iTrader: (1)
Default

I don't like that OEM mobil one stuff! I originally changed my oil @ 400 miles and then changed ALL my fluids (T-fluid, F&R Diff, and Engine oil) @ ~1176 miles.
I switched to Motul fluid and WillAll for the tranny and it made a HUGE difference...., no diff chatter, engine sounds smoother, and the tranny is QUIET.
__________________
- '09 GTR Gunmetal...11.38 @ 124 mph NO LC
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan--GT-R-Drag-Racing.html
- '01 LS430 Ultra Luxury...VIP Style baby!
- '88 FC3S (417 RWHP on Dynojet @ 1 Bar)(SOLD)
- '04 MDX Touring w/Nav (SOLD)
- '04 G35 6MTw/ Nav+Ar(SOLD)
- '02 Altima SE (SOLD)
- '00 Maxima SE (SOLD)
- '80 280zx gab sus, covette back & front kit (Sold)
- '80 Skyline "Japan" Hoshinos, gab sus, HKS T(sold)
celsius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2009, 11:53 AM   #12
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default

So you don't buy into that "special engine oil for the plasma coated engine blah blah blah" nonsense from Nissan?

I'm a big believer in German Castrol that I used religiously with my previous BMW. Just never been that happy with Mobil 1, especially after it stopped being a true PAO IV synthetic (or something along those lines).

Quote:
Originally Posted by celsius View Post
I don't like that OEM mobil one stuff! I originally changed my oil @ 400 miles and then changed ALL my fluids (T-fluid, F&R Diff, and Engine oil) @ ~1176 miles.
I switched to Motul fluid and WillAll for the tranny and it made a HUGE difference...., no diff chatter, engine sounds smoother, and the tranny is QUIET.
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2009, 12:52 PM   #13
mindlessoath
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 523
iTrader: (2)
Default

the stock oils are prefered unless you find something thats made for the R35 and better, like motul, willall, and i think one or two others in japan.

Im not sure on the exact spacifics tho, just that the car is special and the willall and motul stuff has been used and or made spacificly for this car.
__________________
GT-R Center.net
Latest post: on February 25, 2010, 8:10 pm
Submit Stories, News, Images, Events, etc... by email
mindlessoath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2009, 01:18 PM   #14
cmd51230
Registered Member
 
cmd51230's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 153
iTrader: (0)
Default

Agreed, but my fear is still that there is not enough 3rd party data out there. I see all the info from willall and stuff, but forgive me cynicism, I need some more independent end user or 3rd party verification to actually buy into the hype.

(I switched from the BMW factory castrol to the Germal Castrol stuff because there was just a wealth of data online from both end-users, independent lab reports, etc.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mindlessoath View Post
the stock oils are prefered unless you find something thats made for the R35 and better, like motul, willall, and i think one or two others in japan.

Im not sure on the exact spacifics tho, just that the car is special and the willall and motul stuff has been used and or made spacificly for this car.
__________________
2009 Gun Metallic GT-R. Delivered 10/31/08 in Dallas, TX.
cmd51230 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 12:30 PM   #15
gadgetman
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 8
iTrader: (0)
Default

Has anyone done their own oil & filter changes?
And If so, where have you been able to find the oil... (hopefully at a more reasonable cost vs dealers price)?
Any particualr areas of concern with A DYI oil change process... such as the panel removals. (assuming you have access of putting it on a lift that is)
gadgetman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 12:46 PM   #16
totsubo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 444
iTrader: (1)
Default

I have done more than 10 oil and filter changes.

The oil can be ordered from most places for around $9/Quart. I placed an order for all the oil in one place's distribution warehouse. I purchased over 50 quarts. I still have 32 quarts...

About panels. Do NOT use a powered ratchet to put the bolts back on. Taking them off with one is fine. Inspect the bolts for dirt, clean it as necessary. Clean the panels if they are super dirty. Use two small flat head screw drivers to remove the nylon fasteners and through them in soapy water. Remember to replace the oil pan drain crush washer.
totsubo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 02:43 PM   #17
Norman
malaysiagtrclub.com
 
Norman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,004
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by totsubo View Post
...Use two small flat head screw drivers to remove the nylon fasteners and through them in soapy water...
you mean the under cover attached the front lip?

psicture shows frontlip at right.
Attached Thumbnails (CLICK TO ENLARGE!)
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010677.JPG
Views:	141
Size:	3.43 MB
ID:	2075  


Last edited by Norman; 03-13-2009 at 02:48 PM.. Reason: change left to right
Norman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 02:48 PM   #18
totsubo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 444
iTrader: (1)
Default

No. Don't remove that. That is a rivet.
totsubo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 03:19 PM   #19
Norman
malaysiagtrclub.com
 
Norman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,004
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by totsubo View Post
No. Don't remove that. That is a rivet.
Oops!OK!what kind of rivet i sthat?look square inside,what tools is using for that?

thanks!

with the picture below, they remove all the covers...
Attached Thumbnails (CLICK TO ENLARGE!)
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010676.JPG
Views:	180
Size:	3.36 MB
ID:	2076  

Norman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 05:49 PM   #20
totsubo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 444
iTrader: (1)
Default

Remove all the rubber caps. They can be removed with a nylon pry tool. There are over 20 of them. They are all along the under side of the front lip. Under those use a 10 mm ratchet.

Remove the nylon snap in caps that hold the under tray to the wheel well guard. That is what you will need the two flat head screw driver for.

There are also two more 10 mm bolts on the far edges of the under tray. They are located under the wheel well cover. To get to those, you have to bend the wheel well guard out of the way a bit.

There are two more 10 mm bolts not hidden under anything.

There are two (possibly three; depending on your build date) more bolts on a black metal plate under the rubber gaskets. Under those you will need to use a 12 mm ratchet (remove those last).

Then slide the tray toward the front and then down.

Do the middle tray next. They are all 10 mm bolts and all the same length. You don't have to remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the oil cover down.
totsubo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2009, 06:22 PM   #21
Norman
malaysiagtrclub.com
 
Norman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,004
iTrader: (1)
Default

[quote=totsubo;14115]

Wow,you really experienced.
Norman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2010, 03:11 PM   #22
280Z
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 50
iTrader: (0)
Default

I don't know if there was a change between the 2009 and 2010, but I was able to do an oil change without removing the front underside panel that runs along the front lip. Just removed the middle one and a few bolts and push pins on the front panel. Much easier than removing the complete front panel which seems as though it would be a real pain. I do need some tips on the tranny oil change, such as where the fill is located. Same for the differential drain and fill locations (front and rear diff).

Last edited by 280Z; 01-10-2010 at 03:27 PM.. Reason: correction
280Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2010, 06:05 PM   #23
Norman
malaysiagtrclub.com
 
Norman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,004
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 280Z View Post
I don't know if there was a change between the 2009 and 2010, but I was able to do an oil change without removing the front underside panel that runs along the front lip. Just removed the middle one and a few bolts and push pins on the front panel. Much easier than removing the complete front panel which seems as though it would be a real pain. I do need some tips on the tranny oil change, such as where the fill is located. Same for the differential drain and fill locations (front and rear diff).
Yes, we do that way now ^^ thanks anywhere.

the front LSD filling hole is near by the engine oil filter.

Rear LSD is easy after you remove the C/F cover.

After remove the rear under covers, you will see our GR6 transmission oil pan too,it's easy. but locate the filler hole is a bit "difficult", it between the trans water cooler and propellar shaft. ps.careful not to break the C/F shaft.
Norman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 04:55 PM   #24
280Z
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 50
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman View Post
Yes, we do that way now ^^ thanks anywhere.

the front LSD filling hole is near by the engine oil filter.

Rear LSD is easy after you remove the C/F cover.

After remove the rear under covers, you will see our GR6 transmission oil pan too,it's easy. but locate the filler hole is a bit "difficult", it between the trans water cooler and propellar shaft. ps.careful not to break the C/F shaft.
Norman, you make reference to a C/F cover and C/F shaft. What exactly is the C/F or full name you are referring to. Thanks for your reply.
280Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 06:25 PM   #25
ATLsupra
NGTRC Sponsor
 
ATLsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 786
iTrader: (0)
Default

carbon fiber
__________________
Staged Power & Chassis Upgrades List: CLICK HERE!
Parts installation articles: CLICK HERE!

Chinchi
SpeedForSale.com Parts Manager
Telephone: 770-777-4774
---
ATLsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Local GT-R Oil Change Location totsubo Client Forum - GT-R, Supra, Viper, Vette, and sports car discussion 33 07-07-2009 09:42 AM
Looking for a Super Silver? cheesewz Client Forum - GT-R, Supra, Viper, Vette, and sports car discussion 6 11-07-2008 02:27 PM
First word from Nissan corporate on the GT-R's specs! JeremyBlackwell Client Forum - GT-R, Supra, Viper, Vette, and sports car discussion 0 10-24-2007 12:33 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2006-2016 Speedforsale.com