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Old 06-16-2009, 04:06 PM   #1
JaredPink
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Default Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Installation

Begin by removing the down pipes, which you can see here:http://nissangtrclub.com/showthread.php?t=2441
Once the down pipes are removed, remove the head shields over the rear of the turbos.
Remove the c-clips holding the actuator shaft to the flapper valve. Do NOT loose the c-clip as it will need to be reused. Long needle nose pliers work well for this task.

You can now remove the passenger side actuator bolts, and move the actuator down and out, disconnecting the vacuum reference hose.
Take the new passenger side actuator, and move it into position, attaching the vacuum hose. I found it easier to position and reattach the C-clip before I rebolted the actuator in place.

On the drivers side, from the top side of the vehicle you will need to remove the following: Intercooler pipe with BOV, Air intake box, the main ground strap to the timing case. From underneath, you will need to remove the first charge pipe from the turbo. You will need to unbolt the aluminum pipe and remove it along with the rubber one.



From the top side of the vehicle, remove the two bolts holding the turbo inlet pipe. This is a very tight area and requires a good bit of patience.

Once this pipe is unbolted and removed, remove the two bolts holding on the turbo actuator.
Remove actuator and install aftermarket actuator. When you go to install the torx bolts back into the actuator, I found that very gently taping them to the socket will help greatly!

The stock boost control is done by a VSV (vacuum switching valve) on the drivers side, with both actuators using the same line. Disconnect the metal T from the solenoid side and connect your Mighty-vac (or comparable pressure pump.) This will allow you to pressurize the actuators at the same time. You want to ensure both turbo actuators crack and reach full open at the same time/pressures. You will need to adjust as necessary to ensure they are opening at the same time. This is done by loosing the lock nut on the actuator shaft and turning it either tighter, or looser, as needed. Typically, a GT-R running pump gasoline (91-93 octane) will want to set the crack pressure as low as it will go, which is typically about 11-14psi on most actuators. If you are going for very high boost, you will want to tighten down the actuator arms so that the wastegates crack at a higher pressure. If you do not set up an even crack and peak open pressure between both wastegates, get ready for boost control issues and a lot of tuning hassle.

Once you confirm proper adjustment, begin reassembly. Install the vaccum lines back in place, turbo inlet pipe (using tape on bolts to hold to socket), Turbo charge pipe, air boxes, grounding strap, upper intercooler pipe, Turbo heat shields from underneath, then the down pipes.
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Last edited by JaredPink; 06-26-2009 at 02:42 PM..
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:54 PM   #2
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Hey guys, for anyone who has already read this article, I just added a bit more information and touched up a few things in the article for clarity.
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:42 PM   #3
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Hi Jeremy,,

thanks for your information, i have confusing about the 11-14pis .. what exactly do ? and what the related with the boost and the turbo? does the EVC adjusted it?
see there is Wastegate give 29pis? what this mean?

I'am Zero knowledge about the pis, boost and EVC? if you can give more details i'll be appreciated that.

Regards,
Hisham
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:18 PM   #4
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Hello Hisham,

I'm sorry but I do not understand your question. This modification should only be performed if you have full understanding of the EVC, actuators, and set up. I recommend that you take your car to a good performance shop and give them these instructions. Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:50 AM   #5
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Do you have pics of completed job, my are really close to the inside fender well on the driver side.
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Old 08-26-2009, 03:12 PM   #6
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It will be a VERY very tight fit!
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